5 PCI-DSS compliance challenges impacting ... - Sophos News

Litecoin Mining Parts - Litecoin Mining Hardware

Litecoin Mining Parts are a small UK based company with a passion for Bitcoin and Litecoins. We have built both Bitcoin and Litecoin mining rigs and know a thing or two about the essential parts required. Through a case of trial and error, we have managed to find the best materials for building mining rigs and have sourced only the highest of quality parts available on the market.
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SubredditReports

Daily and weekly summary reports for a variety of subreddits. Check the schedule in the sidebar to see when your favorite sub's report is scheduled.
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🔸 New Listing🔸 #BKEX will list #PCI🚀 🚀 - Trading pair: PCI/USDT, PCI/BTC - Trading time: 17:30 on Oct 12 (UTC+8) 🔹 🔹 More details: https://bkex.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360055681634 #Bitcoin #ETH #BKK #Blockchain

🔸 New Listing🔸 #BKEX will list #PCI🚀 🚀 - Trading pair: PCI/USDT, PCI/BTC - Trading time: 17:30 on Oct 12 (UTC+8) 🔹 🔹 More details: https://bkex.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360055681634 #Bitcoin #ETH #BKK #Blockchain submitted by bkex-exchange to BKEXGlobal [link] [comments]

[SG] New PCI-E Powered USB Risers - only $14.22 each with Free Shipping (Paypal, Google Wallet, Dogecoin and Bitcoin)

Dogemarket exclusive friend price on these brand new PCI-E powered USB risers! Each riser comes with a 50cm USB cable and a 4-pin molex to sata power adapter.
Pics of the exact model you will receive: http://imgur.com/a/vHZme
$14.22 US (Paypal and Google Wallet) or Dogecoin/Bitcoin per riser (minimum 2). Free USPS shipping included. Ships same day from the US, only within the US. Units have not been individually tested, sales are final. Thanks for reading!
submitted by DiggyBank to dogemarket [link] [comments]

[SG] New PCI-E powered USB risers - Free Shipping - $15.50 each (Paypal and Google Wallet) and Dogecoin/Bitcoin

Brand New PCI-E powered USB risers: Each riser comes with a 50cm USB cable and a 4-pin molex to sata power adapter.
$15.50 US (Paypal and Google Wallet) or Dogecoin/Bitcoin per riser (minimum 2). Free USPS shipping included. Ships from the US. Ships only within the US. These units have not been individually tested. Sales are final. Thanks for reading!
submitted by DiggyBank to dogemarket [link] [comments]

[SG] New PCI-E powered USB riser 7-packs with Free USPS shipping within USA: 7-pack only $100.00 US each (google wallet), or equivalent dogecoin/bitcoin

Brand new PCI-E powered USB riser packs for sale. You will receive seven (7) risers in this package deal. Each riser comes with a 50cm USB cable and a 4-pin molex to sata power adapter.
As these units have not been individually tested they are sold only in a 7-pack. Sales are final.
$100.00 US (Google Wallet or Paypal), or equivalent dogecoin/bitcoin, per riser 7-pack. I have a total of six of these package deals available. Ships from the USA. Free shipping is included (USPS), but ships only within the United States.
I am a new seller and require an acknowledged escrow for each sale. You may also be interested in these mining motherboards I have listed. Thanks!
submitted by DiggyBank to dogemarket [link] [comments]

The three things that keep me up at night.

Tonight I read this article and while it doesn’t get too deep into the technical weeds, I thought I could do better by breaking down some of the IT threats and concerns that keep me up at night into more of a non-tech person’s language while giving real world examples why this stuff really does matter to everyone, not just the uber nerds, naysayers, and tinfoil hat wearing conspiracy theorists.
https://nakedsecurity.sophos.com/2020/09/18/a-real-life-maze-ransomware-attack-if-at-first-you-dont-succeed/
Security (both digital and physical) is something most people don’t understand and as a result they act like an ostrich by burying their head in the sand; if I can’t see it, it can’t see me. Until recently I was an IT consultant and would frequently bring this up to my clients. The usual reply I hear is along the lines of “but my company doesn’t have much money, isn’t a bank, doesn’t do anything interesting, etc. so they aren’t going to target me and I don’t have anything to worry about.” Sadly, this isn’t the case. These crooks “spray and pray” and will victimize anyone who gets caught in their snare. They will send out hundreds of millions of emails, compromise thousands of websites, and make tens of thousands of robocalls all with the expectation that they are only going to be able to victimize 0.0001% of their attempts.
For years there have been two big threats in the IT world that literally keep me up at night; regulatory compliance and ransomware. There is now a third, extortionware.
Regulatory compliance is an area business owners and executives commonly overlook because they don’t think it applies to their company because they’re not in health care or banking. PCI (Payment Card Industry), PII (Personal Identifiable Information), HIPAA (Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act), and HITECH (Health Information Technology for Economic and Clinical Health Act) are the most common compliance standards and now cover just about every company in existence in the United States. If the company takes credit cards of any kind there are some levels of PCI compliance that they need to be adhered with. PII covers most HR information like social security numbers or driver license numbers. HIPAA and HITECH both cover information related to health records. This is one that most companies overlook because they don’t realize things like workmen’s compensation claims, HR records that discuss health related issues, etc. are all covered by these standards. Fines from the governing bodies that cover their respective compliance standards are usually preventable because they have general guidelines that cover what needs to be done to be in compliance on the logistical, physical, and digital fronts. If your company does anything with the European Union, then GDPR (General Data Protection Regulation) is a new regulation that has some pretty serious consequences if not followed properly.
Ransomware is a genre of computer virus that is just evil. It encrypts your data and give you a very short period of time (typically only a couple days) to pay the ransom using untraceable funds transfers via cryptocurrencies like Bitcoin. If you don’t pay the ransom in time they will delete the decryption key thus destroying all your data. If you do pay the ransom then chances are you will get your data back however you are likely very literally funding terrorism and/or some other kind of organized crime. These ransoms are also meant to be payable but be painful to pay. The newer ransomware variants will scan your network to get an idea of how big it is then adjust the ransom accordingly; the more devices, the higher the ransom. Typical ransoms start around a few thousand dollars and work their way up hundreds of thousands or even millions of dollars. If you’re infected with these viruses then the best course of action to remove it is to wipe your entire network (all servers, workstations, firewall and switch configs, etc.) and rebuild it from scratch while restoring your important data from backups into a separate clean environment, scanning it for any traces of the virus, then moving it into the newly rebuilt network. While this is typically more expensive than paying the ransom it is the only way you can be sure the virus is no longer on your network and thus capable of infecting everything all over again and repeating the ransom process.
Extortionware is similar to its older sibling ransomware in that the virus typically does all the same things however it adds an even more sinister twist, it copies your data offsite to a server only the criminals can access. They do this because of the increased number of companies that have opted to not pay the ransom and just rebuild their network. Using extortionware the criminals now have the company’s intellectual property (usually proprietary), HR data, internal memos, financial data, emails, etc.. Did someone say something unflattering about someone else in an email, did HR have a spreadsheet with every employee’s SSNs, hire dates, etc., or are there private financial records relating to an upcoming acquisition that your competitors shouldn’t know about? All of this and more will be used by the criminals to extort money from the company. This means that even if you have a rock solid backup of all your data, you still need to pay to prevent your data from being released to the public and/or press.
While this post just scratches the surface, it does cover the highlights on why I push for stronger passwords (longer is better than higher complexity https://xkpasswd.net), keeping non-company owned and unmanaged devices off internal networks, multiple factor authentication on everything, never sharing your passwords with anyone, running regular security related exercises, using unique passwords on everything, and using a reputable password manager to keep track of all your passwords.
submitted by tigerguppy126 to sysadmin [link] [comments]

Crypto.com Pay Invoicing Now Available for Kaiko

Crypto.com Pay Invoicing Now Available for Kaiko

https://preview.redd.it/40fwcwyv9tu51.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=b894d214940816169e1373d0d4d1efbd0929a932
We’re pleased to announce that Kaiko, a leading digital asset data provider, has integrated Crypto.com Pay invoicing feature. Kaiko is a market data provider in the blockchain-based digital assets space, providing institutional investors and market participants with enterprise-grade data infrastructure. With this integration, clients of Kaiko can now pay invoices in five popular cryptocurrencies, including Bitcoin (BTC), Ethereum (ETH), Ripple (XRP), Litecoin (LTC) and Crypto.com Coin (CRO)
Eric Anziani, COO at Crypto.com said, “We are thankful to have a leading digital asset provider like Kaiko trust and use our Pay Invoicing feature. With our pay invoicing feature, Kaiko can generate invoices in seconds, in addition to allowing their customers to pay in crypto, anywhere. Crypto.com will continue to strive towards our vision of enabling more merchants to accept payments in crypto for free and gain access to a fast-growing digital-first customer segment.”
The integration allows Kaiko to easily issue crypto invoices and collect crypto through Crypto.com Pay Invoice.
Ambre Soubiran, CEO of Kaiko: "As a startup in the cryptocurrency industry, we understand how important it is that payment for our data services be available in crypto. Thanks to our integration with Crypto.com, our clients now have a wider range of payment options, which ultimately makes our services more accessible."
Leveraging Crypto.com Pay Invoice Powered by the Crypto.com’s ISO/IEC 27701:2019, CCSS Level 3, ISO27001:2013 and PCI:DSS 3.2.1, Level 1 compliance platform, Crypto.com Pay Invoice safeguards customer payment data, providing companies peace of mind while offering customers the option to pay in cryptocurrencies.
Are you a business? Offer your customers an option to pay in cryptocurrencies using Crypto.com Pay Checkout. Crypto received can be instantly converted to fiat currencies of choice for companies who do not wish to be exposed to the exchange rate volatility. Companies can also issue invoices via email to collect payment in crypto using the Crypto.com Pay Invoice service. Please refer here for more features of Crypto.com Pay and sign up for the service.
submitted by BryanM_Crypto to Crypto_com [link] [comments]

Advices about gpu mining setup?

Hi everyone, fairly new to the topic and issues that come with it. I plan on buying a gamemax bitcoin mining 1650W power supply, and 2x 1660 super. I wanted to use my personal computer for the job, because it has a z370 pro4 mobo, and because i dont use it much really, because im a student in another city.
  1. Can i wire the power supply only to the gpus and not to the pc? Do i need to short a cable or something to start the psu?
  2. Is there any problem that may arise if im using my personal computer? I'll probably get risers and put the gpus out of the pc case for now. Is there any recommendation for maximum lenght of the pci riser cable? I will buy a seperate motherboard when i mine it and slowly expand my rig.
  3. Are there brands i should avoid buying? Zotac? Gigabyte? Also is there any info somewhere about the memory brand of the gpu? Samsung seems the best.
  4. Can i run different gpus at the same time? 2x 1660 & 1x 1060 in my case.
I plan on mining with nicehash.
submitted by ivancho1BG to gpumining [link] [comments]

My First Time Building a PC from SCRATCH!

My First Time Building a PC from SCRATCH!

https://preview.redd.it/9nvoui2xxmm51.jpg?width=2592&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=97315d2dce0b85957fe6ffc44fab5c03a4935a1d
Finally done my first DIY PC build from scratch, although not my first PC. Past computers built by shops. Components, including *ones reused from my old build:
  • BeQuiet Base 500
  • AMD Ryzen 2700x
  • MSI B450 Mortar Motherboard
  • MasterCooler ML240L V2 RGB AIO
  • NAXN 650w PSU, non-modular. (Cable management with it is a nightmare.)
  • 2 x 8GB DDR4-3200 Sport Balistix
  • Galax GTX 1070 (2nd-hand too! Bought it from someone who used it for bitcoin mining.)
  • AverMedia Live Gamer HD 2 PCI-E Capture Card (Outer shell removed. Can you guess why?)
  • Fans (2 x SickleFlow 120mm RGB included with AIO, 1 x Silent Wings 3 140mm, 2 x Silent Wings 3 120mm)
  • IPS 1366 x 768 LCD screen, salvaged from my father's old laptop. Secondary monitor inside my case. ;-) Extra parts ordered from AliExpress: Controller board, acrylic case to house controller board, Molex-to-2.5mm Jacket plug, 19cm HDMI ribbon cable.
  • Last but not least, first-time installation of LED stripping to the case interior.
https://preview.redd.it/um8dr4w3ymm51.jpg?width=2592&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=891b3f48457f1c8a8cc7cf8365f856766621eb43
Granted, not the most epic of builds, but I am proud of it anyways because it is extremely functional, clean-looking (???), as economical as I can get it, and I am able to give a new lease of life to supposed 'broken' computer components.
submitted by morriskytos to pcmasterrace [link] [comments]

GPU for 165fps and streaming?

So my current build
intel Core i7-6700K 8M Skylake Quad-Core 4.0 GHz
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB
MSI GeForce GTX 1060 ARMOR
MSI Z170A SLI Plus motherboard
SanDisk Ultra II 2.5" 960GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive
TOSHIBA X300 HDWE160XZSTA 6TB 7200 RPM 128MB CacheSATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Desktop Internal Hard Drive
Cooler Master HAF XB EVO - High Air Flow Test Bench and LAN Box Desktop Computer Case

As for My GPU, I bought a cheap one, was gonna get a more expensive one later then bitcoin happened so that was a no go. After looking at GPUS today I'm confused why they are all so cheap now So Idk if I'm missing something or looking at the wrong card.

My PC is 4 years old so I will probably buy a new one at some point over the next 2 years and I want to get the new GPU now as I have just bought a new monitor that plays 165 frames, and would like to play games at165 while streaming as well, but also want this GPU to be for my next pc as well, What GPU would you guys recommend for this?

What I Don't get is my 1060 is 500$: https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-gtx-1060-gtx-1060-armor-6g-ocv1/p/N82E16814137040?item=9SIAE8D9C96024&nm_mc=knc-googleadwords&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwords-_-video%20card%20-%20nvidia-_-msi-_-9SIAE8D9C96024&source=region

This 2060 is cheaper: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/nvidia-geforce-rtx-2060-super-8gb-gddr6-pci-express-graphics-card-black-silve6361329.p?skuId=6361329&ref=212&loc=1&ref=212&loc=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9b_4BRCMARIsADMUIyqJpcrgGzilM0wxBTixuNJe5K3ZG30J9lo_2BXzPUFz2bnzj3Ufe0AaAlbaEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
and a 2070 is like 100$ more https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-2070-super-gv-n207sgaming-oc-8gd/p/N82E16814932212?&quicklink=true


submitted by Tubby200 to buildapc [link] [comments]

I'm not sure what my instability issues are, motherboard, or nvme drive, or cpu maybe? Hard-lockups, blue screens, exacerbated by drive writing.

System Specs: 32gb DDR4 3200mhz AMD Ryzen 5 3600 ADATA 1tb NVME drive. 750 watt EVGA Bronze PSU NVidia 970 GTX (which also crashes, but that's not the issue here - it was an old bitcoin GPU a friend sold me on the cheap, was the only thing I could afford) MSI Gaming Plus x570 Motherboard Stock cooling (air) Windows 10 2019 LTSC
I've actually already replaced the ADATA NVME drive once -- a couple of months back it just up and died completely. Upon replacing it, things were stable for a while (a while being...about a month and a half), but I'm getting random lockups now, and issues that seem to point to the ADATA NVME drive, or...maybe the motherboard? I've already RMAd the NVME drive once...I'm afraid I'm SOL on doing it a second time. It's not a Gen4 drive, according to CrystalDiskInfo, it's running at PCI-E 3.0x4 lanes. S.M.A.R.T. isn't reporting anything erroneous. CrystalDiskMark reports about 2k MB/s sequential reads @ 1MiB (top test), and ~800MB/s write when I benchmark it.
Really the problem reared its ugly head as I was doing an update to a game yesterday evening. It was a 3gb update, followed with an "optimization" which basically reads and then rewrites the game files sequentially on the disk. This is basically 30gb worth of rewriting, and it really brought out the machine locking up while it was doing its thing.
As I watched on my task manager, the drive went from 20MB/s writes, down to 8MB/s, down to 1MB/s, up until the machine essentially stopped responding. The NVME drive was warm, but I bought a really beefy heatsink for this thing after the first one died; taking insane care putting it together and making sure this one was pampered.
Randomly I'll come home these past few weeks with Windows 10 on a screen saying it couldn't repair the boot device, or that a boot device wasn't found, and I've even gotten a "NON_PAGED_POOL" error once which made me think I had a RAM issue.
I've thrown memtest on a USB stick and ran it over night with nothing to show for it. So at the very least I'm pretty sure my RAM is fine.
After last night, lockup after lockup, I moved the NVME drive down from the top slot above the GPU (it...gets a little toasty there, but not uncomfortably so.) down to the slot below it.
So far, in 24hrs, I haven't gotten any random crash - but that may just be luck. I've had strings of a day or two where nothing happened. My problem is - I don't know what I should be distrustful of at this point. The NVME drive that died was in the top slot of this motherboard. I seem to maybe, have possibly resolved it by putting it in the bottom slot...should I RMA the motherboard? The drive? I've heard something about the top NVME slot being connected directly to the CPU and the bottom one having to go through a PCI-E controller instead or something? -- I don't know details on that exactly, but could the CPU be the issue with the top nvme slot?
So now I'm kinda freaking out, wondering if I've gotta rebuild this stupid thing with an RMA'd mobo, or if the motherboard is even the culprit at all anyhow. Fans are all max, running them balls-out because I thought it could be a heat issue at some point.
At this point, I'm kind of at a loss and I'm becoming really disappointed in this new machine I built for myself - it's unstable, it's also the local minecraft server for my kids, and it keeps causing me issues.
Edit: Has the latest bios. I updated that when it came out. No overclocking going on with the board at all; I bought the x570 for future expansion in mind... also sorry about my writing - I have gray-matter memory issues and sometimes I'll repeat myself or make a sentence read weird. Ask for any clarification and you'll get it.
submitted by Gitwhiffle to techsupport [link] [comments]

MaChance Casino €10 FREE No Deposit Bonus on Registration!

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submitted by freespinsbet to u/freespinsbet [link] [comments]

Building my first rig with 6 GPUs using an Asus B250 MB, looking for advice

New member so please be gentle. I have been micro mining for a few months now (with my GTX 1060 and my new RTX 2080 ti) and want to step up my game a notch. I have my sites set on building the following system with the specs listed below so far. Any input on why I should not use a specific item or why I should use a certain item would be greatly appreciated!
1. Kingwin Bitcoin Miner Rig Case W/ 6, or 8 GPU Mining Stackable Frame x 1:
I have expansion in mind with this frame. It's stackable and ounces I ROI my first rig I plan on tossing a second level on to it. This frame is currently selling for around $50.
Kingwin Bitcoin Miner Rig Case W/ 6, or 8 GPU Mining Stackable Frame
2. ROSEWILL Gaming 80 Plus Gold 1600W Power Supply (HERCULES-1600S) x 1:
The heart of any rig, the power! I like this one for it's 1600W and it's price. Currently running around $200.
ROSEWILL Gaming 80 Plus Gold 1600W Power Supply (HERCULES-1600S)
3. ASUS B250 MINING EXPERT Motherboard x 1:
This motherboard is being used with expansion in mind. I want to start with 6 GPUs then build on that. Currently running around $140.
ASUS MINING EXPERT Motherboard (B250)
4. VOLADOR PCI-E Riser 1x to 16x Powered Riser Adapter Card (USB3) x 6:
Standard USB 3.0 risers. They come in a six-pack for about $20.
VOLADOR PCI-E Riser 1x to 16x Powered Riser Adapter Card (USB3)
5. XFX Radeon RX 580 GTS XXX Edition (RX-580P8DFD6) x 6:
Currently cheaper than the Sapphire below. These are currently running around $170.
XFX Radeon RX 580 GTS XXX Edition (RX-580P8DFD6)

5-ALT. Sapphire Radeon Pulse RX 580 8GB (11265-05-20G) - BACKUP CHOICE GPU:
This is what I was looking at first then I found the cheaper XFX Radeon's above. These are currently running around $180.
Sapphire Radeon Pulse RX 580 8GB (11265-05-20G)

6. CPU:
Currently I do not have any CPUs in mind to use for this rig. I know I don't need a beefy CPU for running Windows. I plan on ONLY mining with GPUs in this rig. Suggestions are welcome!

7. Memory:
Currently I do not have any memory in my sites. Suggestions are welcome!

8. Harddrive:
I plan on using a simple 128GB USB thumb drive for the hard drive right now. Possibly something like an SSD if needed, but plan on using USB flash drive to start. Pros/Cons suggestions welcome!

I think I my video my endeavor and show everyone how fun/frustrating it all was. Catching all the pitfalls in hopes of helping others out etc. But first I need to have a plan and that's what this is. I need to do some lite research, get a good shopping list, make a payment plan, and an ROI schedule. Any feedback that the community could give me would be very helpful because I only know about 80% of what I need to know to build this rig. The 20% is the overclocking, bios issues (MB and gpu), and general knowledge of building a mining rig. I expect there to be pitfalls and parts I didn't think of until I start the build.
submitted by armega to cryptomining [link] [comments]

Is this the right time build a PC?

Or will there ever be a right time? Couple years ago I wanted to build a new pc and because of all the bitcoin mining rage gpu prices were outrageous. Now, once again I decided to build a pc again and I keep reading this is not a good time and should wait more for ryzen 4000, rtx 3000 etc. I feel like there is no end to waiting.

After doing some research I came up with something like this:
Ryzen 9 3900x processor
Gskill flare x 16 gb ram
Asus TUF X570 gaming mb
Evga 2070 Super gpu
1 tb Sabrent rocket nvme ssd and
this monitor https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16824012012

My goal is 32" 1440p 144 hz gaming. I don't have a super strict budget but I don't want to spend too much money either. I know that 3900x and pci 4 ssd are overkill but since when that has stopped us? lol.
Does it make sense to buy this system now or once again I should keep waiting? I will also buy a ps5 when it comes out so I will mostly be playing wow, eve online, mmorpg and online games mostly.
submitted by ste1n to buildapc [link] [comments]

Running Two GPUs- This is a tricky one.

Hello!
I'm trying to get a (remarkably unorthodox) multi-GPU setup working with my system. In short, I'm trying to pair an Nvidia GTX 1050ti and a Quadra FX580 on the same Windows 10 system. My motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-A320M-S2H.
The 1050ti is installed in the PCiE x16 slot, and the Quadro FX580 is installed in one of the PCiE 1x slots via a 1x -> 16x riser card(typically used by bitcoin miners). Windows 10 recognizes both devices in the device manager. Yes, I understand the bottlenecks, warnings, and otherwise ridiculous nature of this setup, but I just needs it for additional monitor outputs. Buying a completely new 10-series GPU or new motherboard is out of the budget(already had the Quadro FX580 on hand), and USB-based video cards are too unreliable and underperforming for what we're after. This is what we've tried so far and the results we've gotten:
Here's where things get interesting.
Booting into Linux, both GPUs work with no issues, right off the bat.
Booting into Windows 10 safe mode and running DDU (followed by a reboot back into safe mode) enables both GPUs, and they both work. Which suggests that Windows 10 is definitely capable of operating in this configuration. However, attempting to install either driver for either card (or even just letting Windows do so on its own) breaks the FX580 and enables only the 1050 ti, giving a "Code 43" for the FX580 in device manager.
I'm completely perplexed. Drivers for the FX580 aren't important, as it's just for additional screen real estate, though being able to run the latest drivers for the 1050ti would be nice for best game performance. Is there a way to "lock" the working Microsoft Basics Display Driver to the FX580, keeping it in a working state and allowing the 1050ti to be updated? My friend did this successfully with his personal system with a 1080ti and an old ATI card and it was plug-and-play; both cards worked great and there were no driver issues, so I'm completely stumped as to why this configuration is giving me so much trouble(He is stumped on this problem as well)
Any insight or help would be greatly appreciated!
submitted by tuckjohn37 to techsupport [link] [comments]

The importance of being mindful of security at all times - nearly everyone is one breach away from total disaster

This is a long one - TL;DR at the end!

If you haven't heard yet: BlankMediaGames, makers of Town of Salem, have been breached which resulted in almost 8 million accounts being leaked. For most people, the first reaction is "lol so what it's just a game, why should I really care?" and that is the wrong way to look at it. I'd like to explain why everyone should always care whenever they are part of a breach. I'd also like to talk about some ways game developers - whether they work solo or on a team - can take easy steps to help protect themselves and their customers/players.
First I'd like to state that there is no practical way to achieve 100% solid security to guarantee you'll never be breached or part of a breach. The goal here will be to get as close as possible, or comfortable, so that you can rest easy knowing you can deal with problems when they occur (not if, when).

Why You Should Care About Breaches

The sad reality is most people re-use the same password everywhere. Your email account, your bank account, your steam account, your reddit account, random forums and game websites - you get the idea. If you haven't pieced it together yet the implication is that if anyone gets your one password you use everywhere, it's game over for you - they now own all of your accounts (whether or not they know it yet). Keep in mind that your email account is basically the holy grail of passwords to have. Most websites handle password changes/resets through your email; thus anyone who can login to your email account can get access to pretty much any of your accounts anywhere. Game over, you lose.

But wait, why would anyone want to use my password? I'm nobody!

It doesn't matter, the bad guys sell this information to other bad guys. Bots are used to make as much use of these passwords as possible. If they can get into your bank they might try money transfers. If they get into your Amazon account they might spin up $80,000 worth of servers to mine Bitcoin (or whatever coin is popular at the time). They don't care who you are; it's all automated.
By the way, according to this post (which looks believable enough to be real) this is pretty much how they got into the BMG servers initially. They checked for usernames/emails of admins on the BMG website(s) in previous breach dumps (of which there are many) and found at least one that used the same password on other sites - for their admin account!
If you want to see how many of your accounts are already breached check out Have I Been Pwned - I recommend registering all of your email addresses as well so you get notified of future breaches. This is how I found out about the Town of Salem breach, myself.

How You Can Protect Yourself

Before I go into all the steps you can (and should) take to protect yourself I should note that security is in a constant tug of war with convenience. What this means is that the more security measures you apply the more inconvenienced you become for many tasks. It's up to you to decide how much is too much either way.
First of all I strongly recommend registering your email(s) on https://haveibeenpwned.com/ - this is especially important if your email address is associated to important things like AWS, Steam developer account, bank accounts, social media, etc. You want to know ASAP when an account of yours is compromised so you can take steps to prevent or undo damage. Note that the bad guys have a head start on this!

Passwords

You probably need to have better password hygiene. If you don't already, you need to make sure every account you have uses a different, unique, secure password. You should change these passwords at least once a year. Depending on how many accounts you have and how good your memory is, this is your first big security vs convenience trade-off battle. That's easily solved, though, by using a password manager. You can find a list of password managers on Wikipedia here or you can search around for some comparison articles.
Some notable choices to consider:
Regardless of which one you choose, any of them is 100x better than not using one at all.

Multi-Factor Authentication / Two-Factor Authentication (aka MFA / 2FA)

The problem with all these passwords is that someone can still use them if they are found in a breach. Your passwords are only as strong as the website you use them on. In the case of the BMG breach mentioned above - all passwords were stored in an ancient format which has been insecure for years. It's likely that every single password in the breach can be reversed/cracked, or already have been. The next step you need to take is to make it harder for someone else to login with your password. This is done using Multi-Factor Authentication (or Two-Factor Authentication).
Unfortunately not every website/service supports MFA/2FA, but you should still use it on every single one that does support it. You can check which sites support MFA/2FA here or dig around in account options on any particular site. You should setup MFA/2FA on your email account ASAP! If it's not supported, you need to switch to a provider that does support it. This is more important than your bank account! All of the big email providers support it: GMail, Outlook.com, Yahoo Mail, etc.
The type of MFA/2FA you use depends on what is supported by each site/service, but there is a common approach that is compatible on many of them. Most of them involve phone apps because a phone is the most common and convenient "thing you have" that bad guys (or anyone, really) can't access easily. Time-based One-time Password or TOTP is probably the most commonly used method because it's easy to implement and can be used with many different apps. Google Authenticator was the first popular one, but it has some limitations which continue the security vs convenience battle - namely that getting a new phone is a super huge chore (no backup/restore option - you have to disable and setup each site all over again). Many alternatives support cloud backup which is really convenient, though obviously less secure by some measure.
Notable choices to consider:
Some sites/services use their own app, like Blizzard (battle.net) and Steam, and don't allow you to use other ones. You will probably have a few apps on your phone when all your accounts are setup, but it's worth it. You'll definitely want to enable it on your password manager as well if you chose a cloud-based one.
Don't forget to save backup codes in an actual secure location! If you lose your backup codes and your auth app/physical key you will be locked out of accounts. It's really not fun recovering in that situation. Most recommendations are to print them and put in a fireproof safe, but using some other secure encrypted storage is fine.
There is such a thing as bad MFA/2FA! However, anything is at least better than nothing. A lot of places still use SMS (text messaging) or e-mail for their MFA/2FA implementation. The e-mail one has the most obvious flaw: If someone gets into your email account they have defeated that security measure. The SMS flaws are less obvious and much less likely to affect you, but still a risk: SMS is trivial to intercept (capture data over the air (literally), clone your SIM card data, and some other methods). Still, if you're not a person of interest already, it's still better than nothing.

What Does This Have To Do With GameDev?

Yeah, I do know which subreddit I'm posting in! Here's the section that gets more into things specific to game development (or software development in general).

Secure Your Code

Securing your code actually has multiple meanings here: Securing access to your code, and ensuring your code itself is secure against exploitation. Let's start with access since that's the easier topic to cover!
If you're not already using some form of Source Control Management (SCM) you really need to get on board! I'm not going to go in depth on that as it's a whole other topic to itself, but I'll assume you are using Git or Mercurial (hg) already and hosting it on one of these sites (or a similar one):
First, ensure that you have locked down who can access this code already. If you are using private repositories you need to make sure that the only people who have access are the people who need access (i.e. yourself and your team). Second, everyone should have strong passwords and MFA/2FA enabled on their accounts. If 1 person on the team does not follow good security practices it puts your whole project at risk! So make sure everyone on the team is following along. You can also look into tools to do some auditing and even automate it so that if anyone's account becomes less secure over time (say they turned off MFA one day) they would automatically lose their access.
Additionally you should never commit secrets (passwords, API keys, tokens, social security numbers, etc) to your code repository. Probably 90% of cases where people have their AWS/Google Cloud/Azure accounts compromised and racking up huge bills for bitcoin mining is due to having their passwords/keys stored in their git repo. They either accidentally made it public or someone got access to the private repo through a compromised account. Never store sensitive information in your code repository!
Next topic: Securing your code from vulnerabilities. This one is harder to talk about for game dev as most engines/frameworks are not as susceptible (for lack of a better word) to these situations as others. In a nutshell, you need to keep track of the following:
A lot of these things cannot be solved automatically, unfortunately, but some of it can. If you are using Javascript for your game you likely will be using packages from npm - luckily they (recently) added security auditing for packages. For other languages you can look at tools like Snyk or some other alternatives to audit the libraries you use in your project. Unfortunately none that I know of are aimed at game dev in particular, but it's still important to use these tools when you can. In general, be aware of all of your code dependencies and what impact they can have on your game or your customers if there are security bugs. Impact can range from "can cheat in multiplayer" to "can get IP addresses of all players in the world" or even "can get all information I ever put on my server", etc.
In general you'll want to look into Secure Software Development Lifecycle (commonly SDLC) practices. Microsoft has some information on how they do it.

Secure Your Computer

I'm not going to go in depth on this one because at this point everyone should have a handle on this; if not there are limitless articles, blogs, and videos about the how/what/why. In summary: Keep everything updated, and don't open suspicious links.

Secure Your Website

I will have to add more to this later probably, but again there are tons of good articles, blogs, and videos on these topics. Hopefully the information in this section is enough to get you on the right track - if not feel free to ask for more info. Lots of guides can be found on Digital Ocean's site and they are relevant even if you don't use DO for your servers.
A lot of this will apply to your game servers as well - really any kind of server you expect to setup.

That's it, for now

I ran out of steam while typing this all up after a couple hours, but I may revisit it later to add more info. Feel free to ask any questions about any of these topics and I'll do my best to answer them all.

TL;DR (y u words so much??)

... in general... in general... in general... I sure wrote those 2 words a lot.

Why Should I Trust This Post?

Hopefully I have provided enough information and good links in this post that you can trust the contents to be accurate (or mostly accurate). There is certainly enough information to do some searches on your own to find out how right or wrong I might be about these things.
If you want my appeal to authority answer: I've been working at a major (network/computer) security company for almost 7 years as a software developer, and I've had to put up with pretty much every inconvenience brought on by security. I've also witnessed the aftermath of nearly every type of security failure covered in this post, via customers and the industry at large. None of the links I used are related to my employer or its products.
Edit: Fixed some typos and added some more links
More edit: added a few more points and links
submitted by exoplasm to gamedev [link] [comments]

A slightly overboard response to my threat model.

For what I hope are obvious reasons, I don't want, and probably will never post my threat model publicly online. However, regardless of that, what I'm sure you will extrapolate from this post is that I live my life, digitally in particular, with a fairly high level threat model. This is not because I'm some super sophisticated criminal mastermind, but rather, I am at this level because I genuinely love playing around with this stuff. And I just happen to understand the importance of privacy and just how vital it is to a truly healthy society. I would like to extend a thanks to ProgressiveArchitect for the sharing of the knowledge they have done on this subreddit, /privacytoolsio, and the like. We may have never interacted, but nevertheless, your input into this community is truly interesting and extremely informative and educating. I'm sure those of you familiar with PA's setup will be able to draw some parallels with mine and their's.
Thank you.
I hope you all enjoy reading this write up.
I run Qubes OS on a Lenovo ThinkPad X230 laptop. Specs for it are as following: - i7-3520M - 16GB RAM - 1TB Samsung 860 Evo SSD - Qualcomm Atheros AR9285 wireless card
Additionally, I used a Raspberry Pi Model 3B+ and a Pomono SPI clip to replace the stock BIOS firmware with coreboot+me_cleaner. This wasn't done out of any "real" concern for the Intel ME (though of course proprietary black-boxes like it should be avoided at all costs and not trusted), but rather for open source enthusiasm and for increased security and faster boot times than what the stock BIOS firmware allows for. On that note about the ME, I don't believe the conspiracy theories that claim that it is a state-sponsored attack method for surveillance. I believe that Intel had good intentions for improving the lives of IT professionals who need to manage hundreds, if not thousands of remote machines. However, it has proven time and time again to be insecure, and I don't need the remote management and the "features" that it provides on my machines.
In Qubes, I use a combination of AppVMs and StandaloneVMs for a variety of different purposes. All VMs use PVH over HVM, except for the Mirage Unikernel Firewall, which uses PV, and the sys-net and sys-usb StandaloneVMs which have to use HVM because of PCI device passthrough. Right now most of my VMs are AppVMs, but for maintenance and compartmentalization reasons, I am considering moving more towards StandaloneVMs, despite the increase in disk space and bandwidth usage for updates.
General route of from Qubes to the Internet for anonymous browsing, general private browsing, accessing Uni services, and Uni-related anonymous browsing respectively: 1. Qubes->sys-mirage-firewall->sys-vpn-wg->sys-corridor->sys-whonix->whonix-ws-15-dvm to the internet. 2. Qubes->sys-mirage-firewall->sys-vpn-wg to the Internet. 3. Qubes->sys-mirage-firewall->uni-vpn-wg to the Internet. 4. Qubes->sys-mirage-firewall->uni-vpn-wg->uni-corridor->uni-whonix->uni-anon-research to the Internet.

(Note: the VPN name is substituted in the "vpn" above. I had to remove it to comply with this subreddit's rules. It is easy to identify what VPN it is as it randomly generates a long numaric string and has fantastic support for WireGuard.)

Web Browsers: - Tor Browser (primary) in a disposable Whonix VM. - Firefox (secondary) with the about:config changes listed on privacytools.io and the following extensions: Cookies AutoDelete, Decentraleyes, HTTPS Everywhere, uBlock Origin (advance user, all third party content blocked and JavaScript disabled), and Vim Vixen. Used in my personal AppVM. - Ungoogled Chromium (Uni only) with standard uBlock Origin and cVim. Used only for Uni-related access in my uni-campus and uni-home AppVMs.
Search Engine: SearX, Startpage, and DuckDuckGo.
Password Manager: KeePassXC.
Office: LibreOffice.
Notes: Standard Notes.
Messaging: Signal Desktop.
Media Playback: mpv.
Emails: I access my personal email within my personal Qubes domain and my Uni email using my Uni Qubes domains. My emails are downloaded to a local repository using isync, send using msmtp, and read using neomutt with html emails converted to plain text using w3m. Emails are sent in plain text too. All of the attachments in the emails (PDFs mostly) are automatically opened in DisposableVMs.
My personal Posteo email account has incoming encryption setup. This means that I emailed my public GPG key to an address correlated to my actual Posteo email address so that all email that I receive is encrypted with my public key and can only be decrypted using my private key. So even if my emails were intercepted and/or my account broken into, the contents of them are safe since they are encrypted as soon as they hit Posteo's servers.
I have setup a number of Posteo aliases that are completely segregated from the email I used to register my account. One of those is considered my "professional" email for my current job. I have another couple aliases, one dedicated for 33mail and another dedicated for Abine Blur. I make use of 33mail alias addresses for catch-all email addresses for registering for accounts that need to be under a username associated with my name anyways. This is for purposes like putting different compartmentalized, but still related emails to put onto my Resume. I use a different alias for each Resume I put out online. That way, when that information gets sold, traded, etc., I can easily trace it back to who sold the information. For example, if I applied for a job online that required me to go through the process of registering an account through a third-party, say 'xyz Inc', the address I would register that account with would be [email protected], or something along those lines. Abine Blur is used much in the same manner but for accounts that don't need to be associated with my real name in any way, say online shopping on Amazon that I do under an many aliases, then ship to various address that I don't live at, but that I can visit with no problems. I use a different Blur address with each service like with 33mail for the same reasoning shown above.
The passwords for the accounts are encrypted and stored locally in each of the domains, however, my private key is stored in my vault domain, so even if an adversary were to compromise the domains, they wouldn't be able to steal my private key without exploiting the hypervisor. They would only be able to wait for me to authorize the usage of my private key in that domain, and even then, it could only be used to decrypt files. That is a concern that they can use my private key to decrypt messages, but they wouldn't be able to steal the key. With my personal email, the emails would also be encrypted locally anyway so they wouldn't be able to read them. My Uni email, in contrast, uses Outlook unfortunately, so there isn't any option to enable incoming encryption, and even if it was, I'm not sure how private it would be anyways.
For those looking for an in depth list of all my VMs, with explanations for the more obscure ones, I have listed them below. I have got a lot of templates, hence why I am considering moving over to StandaloneVMs, but as of right now:

Templates:

StandaloneVMs:

AppVMs:

Phone: Motorola Moto G5s running Lineage OS 16.0 Pie no G-Apps or micro-G with the following Apps: - AdAway: Open Source hosts file-based ad blocker. (Requires root.) - AFWall+: Linux iptables front end. (Requires root.) - Amaze: File manager. - andOPT: 2FA app. I like it since it can export the entries to an AES encrypted file. - AntennaPod: Podcast manager. - AnySoftKeyboard - Simple Calendar - Simple Contacts Pro - DAVx5: CalDav syncronization with my calendar on my Posteo email account. - F-Droid - Fennec F-Droid: Web Browser. Has the same Firefox addons like on Qubes minus Vim Vixen. I used the app Privacy Settings to configure the about:config. - KeePassDX: Password manager. - KISS launcher - Magisk Manager - NewPipe: YouTube app replacement. - S.Notes: Standard Notes. - OsmAnd~: Maps and navigation. - Red Moon: Blue light filter. - SELinuxModeChanger: Exactly as it sounds. (Requires root.) - Shelter: Work profile manager. - Signal: Messaging. - Vinyl Music Player: Music player. - WireGuard: VPN protocol frontend. Is configured to use my VPN account. Is setup as an always-on and connected VPN.
As mentioned, I use Shelter to manage my work profile. In it I isolate the following apps: - Clover: *chan browser. - Orbot: For routing apps through Tor. Is setup as an always-on and connected VPN. - RedReader: Reddit client. - Tor Browser
Over the last several years, I have started using my phone less and less and taking advantage of less of what it has got to offer. I don't check email on my device. I have no real need to browse the Internet on it outside of watching videos using NewPipe, browsing Reddit, and various *chan boards.
On the Smart Phone side of things, I am considering purchasing an older used iPhone SE or 6S for use with MySudo when outside of my home as well as an iPod Touch for use on WiFi only for use inside my home. The iPhone would be kept inside of a faraday bag when I am at home and not using it. It would also be kept in the faraday bag whenever at home to avoid associating that device with my home address. The iPod Touch would be used for MySudo calls instead.
Future outlook and plan for my privacy and security:
To avoid as much deanonymisation of my privacy as possible, I'm only going to specify enough so that anyone reading this can get the jist of my situation in life. I am quite young (age 16 to 25) and I started along this privacy journey when I was even younger. I was never a very heavy social media user, however I did have an online presence if you looked hard enough. My name fortunately is a very common and short name, so that does help to bury information that I was not able to remove further in the vast trenches that is the Internet.
On the digital side of things, I mentioned that I have a dedicated Crypto AppVM for handling crypto currency transactions using Bisq. I have setup a dedicated bank account that I have periodically been transferring money into so that I can trade crypto. Unfortunately, I do not live in the US, so being able to effectively start trades with others is more difficult. I also do not have access to a credit card masking account like privacy.com (that I absolutely would use given the ability). I plan on getting an anonymous VPS to host my own Tor exit node for better speeds and to mitigate the possibility of malicious exit nodes. The country I live in has been a proponent of absolute dragnet surveillance on all activities occurring online and in real life, though the former is far more visible on this subreddit. I will be using crypto with cleaned Bitcoin (as seen with ProgressiveArchitect's setup) for purchasing my VPN service, etc.
With future hardware, to replace my aging laptop, I am very hopeful for Xen, then eventually Qubes OS getting ported to Power9. When that happens I'll be getting a Raptor Computing Blackbird as a desktop. Maybe in the future I'll get a Purism Librem laptop, but for now my corebooted X230 works perfectly for my use cases. On that note, I have successfully build the Heads firmware for the X230 and I was able to get the minimal 4MB image flashed on my laptop. I did revert it back to my coreboot setup after playing around a little with it, and unfortunately I haven't had time since to do a full, complete flash of it.
On the physical/real life side of things, I plan on making use of various Trusts in order to hold assets, say to keep my name from being immediately visible on the title of my car. As of right now I am fortunate enough to have the title of my car under the name of someone who I trust. Unless I am legally required, and where there are immediate and absolute consequences, I use fake names in real life. With Uni, I am enrolled under my real name and address. This is a requirement and it is verified, so there is nothing that I can realistically do about it. As for other services, I plan on setting up a personal mailbox (PMB), etc if possible to use as a real, physical address that is associated with my real name and that is used for things like Government issued ID. In the future when I move again, I plan on renting a place in cash to try and keep my name dissociated with my real address. For those looking for reasoning on why one would want to do that, please read How to be Invisible by J.J. Luna. It's truly the Bible of physical privacy.
At this stage I am just going off on a ramble, so I should cut it short here.
I have just started and I live for this shit.
submitted by ComprehensiveAddict to privacy [link] [comments]

[FS][US-CA] 4U Storage Server - Just add DDR3 RAM and up to 11 HDDs! $50

Local pickup only - will not ship. Location is 94901 - San Rafael, CA.
Asking $50 cash. No PayPal. No bitcoin.
I had this server working with Unraid, Windows Storage Spaces, and Stablebit Drivepool... the CPU is good enough for any of those. Just don't need this anymore since I switched to a tower servePC because rackmount was using more space in my place than a regular PC.
What you get:
-Rosewill RSV-R4000 case that holds 8 3.5" drives. I lost the key for the front lock but the front door still goes up so it can filter the dust/look nice.
-Evercool 5.25 to 3.5" adapter that holds 3 3.5" drives
-ASUS P8Z68V-LX Motherboard. It has 6 SATA ports.
-Core i3-2105 CPU with stock Intel cooler installed.
-Lepa 500W PSU. Not the best PSU in the world but it's good enough and almost brand new.
-PCI-Express SATA card with 2 additional SATA ports. If you plan to use more than 8 drives you'll need to add another SATA card.
\**RAM NOT INCLUDED**\**
Pictures:
https://i.imgur.com/tfVIdEt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YG1S3w5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LxiqN2N.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1ugfg1R.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/voJtxpk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IH5d9WU.jpg
submitted by vortec350 to homelabsales [link] [comments]

Selling off my bitcoin mining rig

Selling off my bitcoin miner rigs. Decided I can’t afford it with electricity being .45/kw here.



Im selling



2 asus B250 mining expert motherboards. 1 new one used.

1 used H110 pro btc motherboard (used)

******note I had an issue with this motherboard so it may be bad. POSSIBLY NOT but might be. Take this into consideration when bidding.***************

1 asus 990fx sabertooth motherboard with 32gb ram.(see image) has a cpu included however I don’t remember which one it was. At the time it was for a gaming PC so it should be decent.

2 8 GPU all aluminum open air frames

2 6 GPU all aluminum open air frames

2 intel g3930 2.9ghz cpus. 1 new 1 used

14 120mm black fans including 2 fan hubs 1 for each machine

20 PCI risers (multiple manufacturers)





I have it listed for 450 OBO. GOOD DEAL I THINK. Message me for questions

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133302526663
submitted by Heiridum to BitcoinMining [link] [comments]

[META] New to PC Building? - September 2018 Edition

Intro

You've heard from all your gaming friends/family or co-workers that custom PCs are the way to go. Or maybe you've been fed up with your HP, Dell, Acer, Gateway, Lenovo, etc. pre-builts or Macs and want some more quality and value in your next PC purchase. Or maybe you haven't built a PC in a long time and want to get back into the game. Well, here's a good place to start.

Instructions

  1. Make a budget for your PC (e.g., $800, $1000, $1250, $1500, etc.).
  2. Decide what you will use your PC for.
    • For gaming, decide what games and at what resolution and FPS you want to play at.
    • For productivity, decide what software you'll need and find the recommended specs to use those apps.
    • For a bit of both, your PC build should be built on the HIGHEST specs recommended for your applications (e.g., if you only play FortNite and need CPU power for CFD simulations, use specs recommended for CFD).
    Here are some rough estimates for builds with entirely NEW parts:
    1080p 60FPS ultra-settings modern AAA gaming: ~$1,200
    1440p 60FPS high/ultra-settings modern AAA gaming: ~$1,600
    1080p 144FPS ultra-settings modern AAA gaming: $2,000
    4K 50FPS medium/high-settings modern AAA gaming: > $2,400
    It's noted that some compromises (e.g., lower settings and/or resolution) can be made to achieve the same or slightly lower gaming experience within ±15% of the above prices. It's also noted that you can still get higher FPS on older or used PCs by lowering settings and/or resolution AND/OR buying new/used parts to upgrade your system. Make a new topic about it if you're interested.
    Also note that AAA gaming is different from e-sport games like CSGO, DOTA2, FortNite, HOTS, LoL, Overwatch, R6S, etc. Those games have lower requirements and can make do with smaller budgets.
  3. Revise your budget AND/OR resolution and FPS until both are compatible. Compare this to the recommended requirements of the most demanding game on your list. For older games, you might be able to lower your budget. For others, you might have to increase your budget.
    It helps to watch gaming benchmarks on Youtube. A good example of what you're looking for is something like this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eLxSOoSdjY). Take note of the resolution, settings, FPS, and the specs in the video title/description; ask yourself if the better gaming experience is worth increasing your budget OR if you're okay with lower settings and lowering your budget. Note that you won't be able to see FPS higher than 60FPS for Youtube videos; something like this would have to be seen in-person at a computer shop.
  4. Make a build on https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/. If you still have no idea how to put together parts, start here (http://www.logicalincrements.com/) to get an understanding of PC part tiers. If you want more info about part explanations and brief buying tips, see the next section below.
  5. Click on the Reddit logo button next to Markup, copy and paste the generated text (in markup mode if using new Reddit), and share your build for review!
  6. Consider which retailer to buy your parts from. Here's a table comparing different retailers: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1L8uijxuoJH4mjKCjwkJbCrKprCiU8CtM15mvOXxzV1s/edit?usp=sharing
  7. Buy your parts! Use PCPP above to send you e-mail alerts on price drops or subscribe to /bapcsalescanada for deals.
    You can get parts from the following PC retailers in alphabetical order:
  8. After procuring your parts, it's time to build. Use a good Youtube tutorial like this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhX0fOUYd8Q) that teach BAPC fundamentals, but always refer to your product manuals or other Youtube tutorials for part-specific instructions like CPU mounting, radiator mounting, CMOS resetting, etc. If it everything still seems overwhelming, you can always pay a computer shop or a friend/family member to build it for you.
    It might also be smart to look up some first-time building mistakes to avoid:
  9. Share your experience with us.
  10. If you have any other questions, use the search bar first. If it's not there, make a topic.

BAPC News (Last Updated - 2018/09/20)

CPU

https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-9000-series-cpu-faq,37743.html
Intel 9000 CPUs (Coffee Lake Refresh) will be coming out in Q4. With the exception of i9 (8-core, 12 threads) flagship CPUs, the i3, i5, and i7 lineups are almost identical to their Intel 8000 (Coffee Lake) series, but slightly clocked faster. If you are wondering if you should upgrade to the newer CPU on the same tier (e.g., i5-8400 to i5-9400), I don't recommend that you do as you will only see marginal performance increases.

Mobo

https://www.anandtech.com/show/13135/more-details-on-intels-z390-chipset-exposed
Z370s will now be phased out for Z390s boards, which will natively support Intel 9000 CPUs (preferably i5-9600K, i7-9700K, and i9-9900K).

GPU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDrpsv0QIR0
RTX 2080 and 2080 Ti benchmarks are out; they provide ~10 and ~20 frames better than the 1080 Ti and also feature ray tracing (superior lighting and shadow effects) which is featured in only ~30 games so far (i.e., not supported a lot); effectively, they provide +25% more performance for +70% increased cost. My recommendation is NOT to buy them unless you need it for work or have lots of disposable income. GTX 1000 Pascal series are still relevant in today's gaming specs.

Part Explanations

CPU

The calculator part. More GHz is analogous to fast fingers number crunching in the calculator. More cores is analogous to having more calculators. More threads is analogous to having more filing clerks piling more work for the calculator to do. Microarchitectures (core design) is analogous to how the internal circuit inside the calculator is designed (e.g., AMD FX series are slower than Intel equivalents even with higher OC'd GHz speeds because the core design is subpar). All three are important in determining CPU speed.
In general, higher GHz is more important for gaming now whereas # cores and threads are more important for multitasking like streaming, video editing, and advanced scientific/engineering computations. Core designs from both AMD and Intel in their most recent products are very good now, but something to keep in mind.

Overclocking

The basic concept of overclocking (OCing) is to feed your CPU more power through voltage and hoping it does calculations faster. Whether your parts are good overclockers depends on the manufacturing process of your specific part and slight variations in materials and manufacturing process will result in different overclocking capability ("silicon lottery"). The downside to this is that you can void your warranties because doing this will produce excess heat that will decrease the lifespan of your parts AND that there is a trial-and-error process to finding OC settings that are stable. Unstable OC settings result in computer freezes or random shut-offs from excess heat. OCing will give you extra performance often for free or by investing in a CPU cooler to control your temperatures so that the excess heat will not decrease your parts' lifespans as much. If you don't know how to OC, don't do it.

Current Products

Intel CPUs have higher GHz than AMD CPUs, which make them better for gaming purposes. However, AMD Ryzen CPUs have more cores and threads than their Intel equivalents. The new parts are AMD Ryzen 3, 5, or 7 2000 series or Intel i3, i5, or i7 8000 series (Coffee Lake). Everything else is outdated.
If you want to overclock on an AMD system, know that you can get some moderate OC on a B350/B450 with all CPUs. X370/X470 mobos usually come with better VRMs meant for OCing 2600X, 2700, and 2700X. If you don't know how to OC, know that the -X AMD CPUs have the ability to OC themselves automatically without manually settings. For Intel systems, you cannot OC unless the CPU is an unlocked -K chip (e.g., i3-8350K, i5-8600K, i7-8700K, etc.) AND the motherboard is a Z370 mobo. In general, it is not worth getting a Z370 mobo UNLESS you are getting an i5-8600K and i7-8700K.

CPU and Mobo Compatibility

Note about Ryzen 2000 CPUs on B350 mobos: yes, you CAN pair them up since they use the same socket. You might get an error message on PCPP that says that they might not be compatible. Call the retailer and ask if the mobo you're planning on buying has a "Ryzen 2000 Series Ready" sticker on the box. This SHOULD NOT be a problem with any mobos manufactured after February 2018.
Note about Intel 9000 CPUs on B360 / Z370 mobos: same as above with Ryzen 2000 CPUs on B350 or X370 boards.

CPU Cooler (Air / Liquid)

Air or liquid cooling for your CPU. This is mostly optional unless heavy OCing on AMD Ryzen CPUs and/or on Intel -K and i7-8700 CPUs.
For more information about air and liquid cooling comparisons, see here:

Motherboard/mobo

Part that lets all the parts talk to each other. Comes in different sizes from small to big: mITX, mATX, ATX, and eATX. For most people, mATX is cost-effective and does the job perfectly. If you need more features like extra USB slots, go for an ATX. mITX is for those who want a really small form factor and are willing to pay a premium for it. eATX mobos are like ATX mobos except that they have more features and are bigger - meant for super PC enthusiasts who need the features.
If you are NOT OCing, pick whatever is cheap and meets your specs. I recommend ASUS or MSI because they have RMA centres in Canada in case it breaks whereas other parts are outside of Canada like in the US. If you are OCing, then you need to look at the quality of the VRMs because those will greatly influence the stability and lifespan of your parts.

Memory/RAM

Part that keeps Windows and your software active. Currently runs on the DDR4 platform for new builds. Go for dual channel whenever possible. Here's a breakdown of how much RAM you need:
AMD Ryzen CPUs get extra FPS for faster RAM speeds (ideally 3200MHz) in gaming when paired with powerful video cards like the GTX 1070. Intel Coffee Lake CPUs use up a max of 2667MHz for B360 mobos. Higher end Z370 mobos can support 4000 - 4333MHz RAM depending on the mobo, so make sure you shop carefully!
It's noted that RAM prices are highly inflated because of the smartphone industry and possibly artificial supply shortages. For more information: https://www.extremetech.com/computing/263031-ram-prices-roof-stuck-way

Storage

Part that store your files in the form of SSDs and HDDs.

Solid State Drives (SSDs)

SSDs are incredibly quick, but are expensive per TB; they are good for booting up Windows and for reducing loading times for gaming. For an old OEM pre-built, upgrading the PC with an SSD is the single greatest speed booster you can do to your system. For most people, you want to make sure the SSD you get is NOT DRAM-less as these SSDs do not last as long as their DRAM counterparts (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybIXsrLCgdM). It is also noted that the bigger the capacity of the SSD, the faster they are. SSDs come in four forms:
The 2.5" SATA form is cheaper, but it is the old format with speeds up to 550MB/s. M.2 SATA SSDs have the same transfer speeds as 2.5" SATA SSDs since they use the SATA interface, but connect directly to the mobo without a cable. It's better for cable management to get an M.2 SATA SSD over a 2.5" SATA III SSD. M.2 PCI-e SSDs are the newest SSD format and transfer up to 4GB/s depending on the PCI-e lanes they use (e.g., 1x, 2x, 4x, etc.). They're great for moving large files (e.g., 4K video production). For more info about U.2 drives, see this post (https://www.reddit.com/bapccanada/comments/8jxfqs/meta_new_to_pc_building_may_2018_edition/dzqj5ks/). Currently more common for enterprise builds, but could see some usage in consumer builds.

Hard Disk Drives (HDDs)

HDDs are slow with transfer speeds of ~100MB/s, but are cheap per TB compared to SSDs. We are now at SATA III speeds, which have a max theoretical transfer rate of 600MB/s. They also come in 5400RPM and 7200RPM forms. 5400RPM uses slightly less power and are cheaper, but aren't as fast at dealing with a large number of small files as 7200RPM HDDs. When dealing with a small number of large files, they have roughly equivalent performance. It is noted that even a 10,000RPM HDD will still be slower than an average 2.5" SATA III SSD.

Others

SSHDs are hybrids of SSDs and HDDs. Although they seem like a good combination, it's much better in all cases to get a dedicated SSD and a dedicated HDD instead. This is because the $/speed better for SSDs and the $/TB is better for HDDs. The same can be said for Intel Optane. They both have their uses, but for most users, aren't worth it.

Overall

I recommend a 2.5" or M.2 SATA ≥ 250GB DRAM SSD and a 1TB or 2TB 7200RPM HDD configuration for most users for a balance of speed and storage capacity.

Video Card/GPU

Part that runs complex calculations in games and outputs to your monitor and is usually the most expensive part of the budget. The GPU you pick is dictated by the gaming resolution and FPS you want to play at.
In general, all video cards of the same product name have almost the same non-OC'd performance (e.g., Asus Dual-GTX1060-06G has the same performance as the EVGA 06G-P4-6163-KR SC GAMING). The different sizes and # fans DO affect GPU OCing capability, however. The most important thing here is to get an open-air video card, NOT a blower video card (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0domMRFG1Rw). The blower card is meant for upgrading pre-builts where case airflow is limited.
For cost-performance, go for the NVIDIA GTX cards because of the cryptomining industry that has inflated AMD RX cards. Bitcoin has taken a -20% hit since January's $10,000+ as of recently, but the cryptomining industry is still ongoing. Luckily, this means prices have nearly corrected itself to original MSRP in 2016.
In general:
Note that if your monitor has FreeSync technology, get an AMD card. If your monitor has G-Sync, get a NVIDIA card. Both technologies allow for smooth FPS gameplay. If you don't have either, it doesn't really matter which brand you get.
For AMD RX cards, visit https://www.pcworld.com/article/3197885/components-graphics/every-amd-radeon-rx-graphics-card-you-can-buy-for-pc-gaming.html

New NVIDIA GeForce RTX Series

New NVIDIA 2000 RTX series have been recently announced and will be carried in stores in Q3 and Q4. Until all of the products have been fully vetted and reviewed, we cannot recommend those yet as I cannot say if they are worth what NVIDIA has marketed them as. But they will be faster than their previous equivalents and will require more wattage to use. The 2070, 2080, and 2080 Ti will feature ray tracing, which is a new feature seen in modern CG movies that greatly enhances lighting and shadow effects. At this time, < 30 games will use ray tracing (https://www.pcgamer.com/21-games-will-support-nvidias-real-time-ray-tracing-here-are-demos-of-tomb-raider-and-control/). It's also noted that the 2080 Ti is the Titan XP equivalent, which is why it's so expensive. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Irs8jyEmmPQ) The community's general recommendation is NOT to pre-order them until we see some reviews and benchmarks from reviewers first.
Looks like a couple of benchmarks are out. While keeping other parts equal the following results were obtained(https://videocardz.com/77983/nvidia-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-and-rtx-2080-official-performance-unveiled). So the 2080 and 2080 Ti are better than last generation's 1080 Ti by ~10 and ~20 frames respectively.

Case

Part that houses your parts and protects them from its environment. Should often be the last part you choose because the selection is big enough to be compatible with any build you choose as long as the case is equal to or bigger than the mobo form factor.
Things to consider: aesthetics, case airflow, cable management, material, cooling options (radiators or # of fan spaces), # fans included, # drive bays, toolless installation, power supply shroud, GPU clearance length, window if applicable (e.g., acrylic, tempered glass), etc.
It is recommended to watch or read case reviews on Youtube to get an idea of a case's performance in your setup.

Power Supply/PSU

Part that runs your PC from the wall socket. Never go with an non-reputable/cheap brand out on these parts as low-quality parts could damage your other parts. Recommended branded PSUs are Corsair, EVGA, Seasonic, and Thermaltake, generally. For a tier list, see here (https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/631048-psu-tier-list-updated/).

Wattage

Wattage depends on the video card chosen, if you plan to OC, and/or if you plan to upgrade to a more powerful PSU in the future. Here's a rule of thumb for non-OC wattages that meet NVIDIA's recommendations:
There are also PSU wattage calculators that you can use to estimate your wattage. How much wattage you used is based on your PC parts, how much OCing you're doing, your peripherals (e.g., gaming mouse and keyboard), and how long you plan to leave your computer running, etc. It is noted that these calculators use conservative estimates, so use the outputted wattage as a baseline of how much you need. Here are the calculators (thanks, VitaminDeity).
Pick ONE calculator to use and use the recommended wattage, NOT recommended product, as a baseline of what wattage you need for your build. Note that Cooler Master and Seasonic use the exact calculator as Outervision. For more details about wattage, here are some reference videos:

Modularity

You might also see some info about modularity (non-modular, semi-modular, or fully-modular). These describe if the cables will come connected to the PSU or can be separated of your own choosing. Non-modular PSUs have ALL of the cable connections attached to the PSU with no option to remove unneeded cables. Semi-modular PSUs have separate cables for HDDs/SSDs and PCI-e connectors, but will have CPU and mobo cables attached. Modular PSUs have all of their cables separate from each other, allowing you to fully control over cable management. It is noted that with decent cooling and airflow in your case, cable management has little effect on your temperatures (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDCMMf-_ASE).

80+ Efficiency Ratings

As for ratings (80+, 80+ bronze, 80+ gold, 80+ platinum), these are the efficiencies of your PSU. Please see here for more information. If you look purely on electricity costs, the 80+ gold PSUs will be more expensive than 80+ bronze PSUs for the average Canadian user until a breakeven point of 6 years (assuming 8 hours/day usage), but often the better performance, longer warranty periods, durable build quality, and extra features like fanless cooling is worth the extra premium. In general, the rule of thumb is 80+ bronze for entry-level office PCs and 80+ gold for mid-tier or higher gaming/workstation builds. If the price difference between a 80+ bronze PSU and 80+ gold PSU is < 20%, get the 80+ gold PSU!

Warranties

Warranties should also be looked at when shopping for PSUs. In general, longer warranties also have better PSU build quality. In general, for 80+ bronze and gold PSU units from reputable brands:
Any discrepancies are based on varied wattages (i.e., higher wattages have longer warranties) or updated warranty periods. Please refer to the specific product's warranty page for the correct information. For EVGA PSUs, see here (https://www.evga.com/support/warranty/power-supplies/). For Seasonic PSUs, see here (https://seasonic.com/support#period). For Corsair PSUs, see here (https://www.corsair.com/ca/en/warranty).
For all other PSU inquiries, look up the following review sites for the PSUs you're interested in buying:
These guys are engineering experts who take apart PSUs, analyze the quality of each product, and provide an evaluation of the product. Another great website is http://www.orionpsudb.com/, which shows which PSUs are manufactured by different OEMs.

Operating System (OS)

Windows 10

The most common OS. You can download the ISO here (https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10). For instructions on how to install the ISO from a USB drive, see here (https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/manufacture/desktop/install-windows-from-a-usb-flash-drive) or watch a video here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLfnuE1unS8). For most users, go with the 64-bit version.
If you purchase a Windows 10 retail key (i.e., you buy it from a retailer or from Microsoft directly), keep in mind that you are able to transfer it between builds. So if you're building another PC for the 2nd, 3rd, etc. time, you can reuse the key for those builds PROVIDED that you deactivate your key before installing it on your new PC. These keys are ~$120.
However, if you have an OEM key (e.g., pre-builts), that key is tied specifically to your mobo. If you ever decide to upgrade your mobo on that pre-built PC, you might have to buy a new Windows 10 license. For more information, see this post (https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/feature/windows/windows-10-oem-or-retail-3665849/). The cheaper Windows 10 keys you can find on Kinguin are OEM keys; activating and deactivating these keys may require phoning an automated Microsoft activation line. Most of these keys are legitimate and cost ~$35, although Microsoft does not intend for home users to obtain this version of it. Buyer beware.
The last type of key is a volume licensing key. They are licensed in large volumes to corporate or commercial usage. You can find lots of these keys on eBay for ~$10, but if the IT department who manages these keys audit who is using these keys or if the number of activations have exceeded the number allotted on that one key, Microsoft could block that key and invalidate your license. Buyer beware.
For more information on differentiating between all three types of keys, see this page (https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/49586-determine-if-windows-license-type-oem-retail-volume.html).
If money is tight, you can get Windows 10 from Microsoft and use a trial version of it indefinitely. However, there will be a watermark in the bottom-right of your screen until you activate your Windows key.

MacOS

If you're interested in using MacOS, look into Hackintosh builds. This will allow you to run MacOS to run on PC parts, saving you lots of money. These builds are pretty picky about part compatibility, so you might run into some headaches trying to go through with this. For more information, see the following links:

Linux

If you're interested in a free open-source OS, see the following links:
For more information, go to /linux, /linuxquestions, and /linux4noobs.

Peripherals

Monitors

Keyboards and Mice

Overall

Please note that the cost-performance builds will change daily because PC part prices change often! Some builds will have excellent cost-performance one day and then have terrible cost-performance the next. If you want to optimize cost-performance, it is your responsibility to do this if you go down this route!
Also, DO NOT PM me with PC build requests! It is in your best interests to make your own topic so you can get multiple suggestions and input from the community rather than just my own. Thanks again.

Sample Builds

Here are some sample builds that are reliable, but may not be cost-optimized builds. These builds were created on September 9, 2018; feel free to "edit this part list" and create your own builds.

Links

Helpful links to common problems below:

Contributors

Thanks to:

Housekeeping

2019/09/22
2019/09/18
Updates:
2019/09/09
Updates:
Sorry for the lack of updates. I recently got a new job where I work 12 hours/day for 7 days at a time out of the city. What little spare time I have is spent on grad school and the gym instead of gaming. So I've been pretty behind on the news and some might not be up-to-date as my standards would have been with less commitments. If I've made any mistakes, please understand it might take a while for me to correct them. Thank you!
submitted by BlackRiot to bapccanada [link] [comments]

Computer Cases for 6+ GPUs?

Planning a new fan-cooled 3D rendering workstation. I liked Entagma's build, but its already outdated with the new AMDs coming out in November with 128 PCIe lanes (PCIE 4.0). So ideally, the build can have the option to expand beyond 4 gpus using riser cards to split x16 pci slots into 2 pci x8... potentially 6-10 gpu's.
Most cases can only handle 4 double-wide GPUs (rtx 2070). Are the bitcoin mining cases ok for 3D Rendering and fan cooling? I've seen a brand called Hydra III that looks promising. I don't want to buy a huge bulky rack just to use a rackmount style case. Or do you recommend another case?
https://www.amazon.com/Hydra-III-Server-Mining-Case/dp/B07B4PPQK8
submitted by freshairproject to Houdini [link] [comments]

I literally have tens of thousands of dollars in top-shelf hardware, looking to repurpose some before selling on eBay to build a NAS system, possibly a dedicated firewall device as well. o_O

Q1) What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.**

A1) This will be a dedicated NAS system for my home network. As such, I'm looking to have it:

- Host ##TB's of 720, 1080 & up resolution Movies and TV Shows I'm about to begin ripping from a MASSIVE DVD & Blueray collection I have.

- My kids are big on Minecraft. I understand it's possible to host your own "worlds" (or whatever they call the maps you can build) on your own "server". I think it would be pretty neat to offer them (& their friends - if can be done 'safely/securely') their own partition on one of my NAS HDD's.

- I also have accounts with a couple diff VPN companies... I understand it's possible (?) to sync said VPN's with a NAS, this might be a more relative topic on the next point/purpose...

- I'd like to be able to remotely link to this NAS for when I travel overseas and want to stream at my temp location from my house/this NAS.
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Q2) What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?**

* A2) Here's where I make matters more complicated than most others would... I've been an advocate for Bitcoin and crypto-currencies in general since 2013. I invested in a small mining outfit back in 2014 (strictly Bitcoin/ASIC's). One of my buddies is the President of a large-scale mining operation (foreign and domestic) and he convinced me to dabble in the GPU mining-space. I made my first hardware purchase in Q4, 2017 and launched a small-scale GPU-Farm in my house since then. I had the rigs mining up until Q3 of 2018 (not cost-efficient to keep on, especially living in SoFlo) and since then, the hardware's been collecting dust (& pissing off my family members since they lost access to 3X rooms in the house - I won't let anyone go near my gear). One of my New Years Resolutions for 2019 was to clear out the house of all my mining equipment so that's all about to go up on eBay. So "budget" is relative to whatever I "MUST" spend if I can't repurpose any of the parts I already have on hand for this build... (Anyone having something I "need" and is looking to barter for one of the items I'll list later on in here, LMK).
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Q3) When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.**

A3) IMMEDIATELY! :)
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Q4) What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ToweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc\)**

A4) Well I had a half-assed idea approximately 1 year ago that it might be wise to build a bunch of 'gaming rigs' to sell on eBay with my intended repurposed mining hardware so I went on a shopping spree for like 6 months. That said; I've got a plethora of various other components that aren't even unboxed yet. 90% of the items I've purchased for this additional project were items that were marked down via MIR (mail-in-rebates) & what-not...
AFAIK, there are only 3X items I absolutely do not have which I 'MUST' find. Those would be - 1) Motherboard which accepts "ECC RAM". 2) CPU for said MOBO. 3) Said "ECC RAM".\* 
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Q5) Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?**

A5) I'm located in Southwest Florida. No Microcenter's here. Best Buy is pretty much my only option although I am a member of Newegg, Amazon & Costco if that makes any difference?
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Q6) If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.**

A6) In an attempt to better clean up this Q&A, I'm going to list the items I have on-hand at the end of this questionnaire in-case passers-by feel like this might be a TLDR.* (Scroll to the bottom & you'll see what I mean).
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Q7) Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?**

A7) I don't think that's necessary for my intended purpose although - I'm not against it if that helps & FWIW, I'm pretty skilled @ this task already (it's not rocket science).
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Q8) Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)**

A8) As stated in A4; ECC RAM is non-negotiable... RAID seems like a logical application here as well.

- This will predominantly be receiving commands from MacOS computers. I don't think that matters really but figured it couldn't hurt to let you guys know.\*

- I'd also be quite fond of implementing "PFSENSE" (or something of that caliber) applied to this system so I could give my Netgear Nighthawks less stress in that arena, plus my limited understanding of PFSENSE is that it's ability to act as a firewall runs circles around anything that comes with consumer-grade Wi-Fi routers (like my Nighthawks). Just the same, I'm open to building a second rig just for the firewall.\*

- Another desirable feature would be that it draws as little electricity from the wall as possible. (I'm EXTREMELY skilled in this arena. I have "Kill-A-Watts" to test/gauge on, as well as an intimate understanding of the differences between Silver, Gold, Platinum and Titanium rated PSU's. As well as having already measured each of the PSU's I have on-hand and taken note of the 'target TDP draw' ("Peak Power Efficiency Draw") each one offers when primed with X amount of GPU's when I used them for their original purpose.\*

- Last, but not least, sound (as in noise created from the rig). I'd like to prop this device up on my entertainment center in the living room. I've (almost) all of the top-shelf consumer grade products one could dream of regarding fans and other thermal-related artifacts.

- Almost forgot; this will be hosting to devices on the KODI platform (unless you guys have better alternative suggestions?)
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Q9) Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?**

A9) Definitely! Desired theme would be WHITE. If that doesn't work for whatever reason, black or gray would suffice. Regarding "Case Size". Nah, that's not too important although I don't foresee a mini-ITX build making sense if I'm going to be cramming double digit amounts of TB in the system, Internal HDD's sounds better than a bunch of externals plugged in all the USB ports.
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Q10) Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?**

A10) I don't know. If I do need a copy of Windows, I don't have one so that's something I'll have to consider I guess. I doubt that's a necessity though.
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**Extra info or particulars:*\*

AND NOW TO THE FUN-STUFF... Here's a list of everything (PARTS PARTS PARTS) I have on-hand and ready to deploy into the wild &/or negotiate a trade/barter with:

CASES -
Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 Arctic White (Model# Crypto-Currency-9011048-WW) - (Probably my top pick for this build).
Cooler Master HAF XB EVO (This is probably my top 1st or 2nd pick for this build, the thing is a monster!).
Cooler Master Elite 130 - Mini ITX - Black
Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MID-Tower - Black & White
Raidmax Sigma-TWS - ATX - White
MasterBox Lite 5 - ATX - Black w/ diff. Colored accent attachments (included with purchase)
NZXT S340 Elite Matte White Steel/Tempered Glass Edition
EVGA DG-76 Alpine White - Mid Tower w/ window
EVGA DG-73 Black - Mid Tower w/ window (I have like 3 of these)

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CPU's -
***7TH GEN OR BELOW INTEL's ("Code Name Class mentioned next to each one)**\*
Pentium G4400 (Skylake @54W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "ECC CAPABLE"
Celeron G3930 (Kaby Lake @ 51W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "ECC CAPABLE" :)
i5 6402P (Skylake @65W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :(
i5 6600k (Skylake @ 91W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :(
i7 6700 (Skylake @ 65W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :(
i7 7700k (Kaby Lake @ 95W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :(


***8TH GEN INTEL's **\*
i3-8350K (Coffee Lake @91W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "ECC FRIENDLY" :)
I5-8600K (Coffee Lake @95W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :(


***AMD RYZEN's **\*
Ryzen 3 2200G
Ryzen 5 1600
Ryzen 7 1700X

______________________
MOTHERBOARDS -

***7TH GEN AND BELOW INTEL BASED MOBO'S - **\*
MSI Z170A-SLI
ASUS PRIME Z270-A
ASUS PRIME Z270-P
ASUS PRIME Z270-K
EVGA Z270 Stinger
GIGABYTE GA-Z270XP-SLI
MSI B150M ARCTIC
MSI B250M MICRO ATX (PRO OPT. BOOST EDITION)

***8TH GEN INTEL BASED MOBO'S - **\*
EVGA Z370 FTW
GIGABYTE Z370XP SLI (Rev. 1.0)
MSI Z370 SLI PLUS


***AMD RYZEN BASED MOBO'S - **\*
ASUS ROG STRIX B350-F GAMING
MSI B350 TOMAHAWK
MSI X370 GAMING PRO
ASROCK AB350M PRO4
______________________


RAM -

Way too many to list, nothing but 4 & 8GB DDR4 sticks and unfortunately, none are ECC so it's not even worth mentioning/listing these unless someone reading this is willing to barter. At which time I'd be obliged to send an itemized list or see if I have what they're/you're specifically looking for.\*
______________________
THERMAL APPLICATIONS/FANS -
JUST FANS -
BeQuiet -
Pure Wings 2 (80mm)
Pure Wings 2 (120mm)
Pure Wings 2 (140mm)
Silent Wings 3 PWM (120mm)

NOCTUA -
PoopBrown - NF-A20 PWM (200mm) Specifically for the BIG "CoolerMaster HAF XB EVO" Case
GREY - NF-P12 Redux - 1700RPM (120mm) PWM
Corsair -
Air Series AF120LED (120mm)

CPU COOLING SYSTEMS -
NOCTUA -
NT-HH 1.4ml Thermal Compound
NH-D15 6 Heatpipe system (this thing is the tits)

EVGA (Extremely crappy coding in the software here, I'm like 99.99% these will be problematic if I were to try and use in any OS outside of Windows, because they barely ever work in the intended Windows as it is).
CLC 240 (240mm Water-cooled system
CRYORIG -
Cryorig C7 Cu (Low-Profile Copper Edition*)

A few other oversized CPU cooling systems I forget off the top of my head but a CPU cooler is a CPU cooler after comparing to the previous 3 models I mentioned.
I almost exclusively am using these amazing "Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pads" as an alternative to thermal paste for my CPU's. They're not cheap but they literally last forever.

NZXT - Sentry Mesh Fan Controller
______________________
POWER SUPPLIES (PSU's) -
BeQuiet 550W Straight Power 11 (GOLD)

EVGA -
750P2 (750W, Platinum)
850P2 (850W, Platinum)
750T2 (750W, TITANIUM - yeah baby, yeah)

ROSEWILL -
Quark 750W Platinum
Quark 650W Platinum

SEASONIC -
Focus 750W Platinum
______________________
STORAGE -
HGST Ultrastar 3TB - 64mb Cache - 7200RPM Sata III (3.5)
4X Samsung 860 EVO 500GB SSD's
2X Team Group L5 LITE 3D 2.5" SSD's 480GB
2X WD 10TB Essential EXT (I'm cool with shucking)
+ 6X various other external HDD's (from 4-8TB) - (Seagate, WD & G-Drives)
______________________

Other accessories worth mentioning -
PCI-E to 4X USB hub-adapter (I have a dozen or so of these - might not be sufficient enough &/or needed but again, 'worth mentioning' in case I somehow ever run out of SATA & USB ports and have extra external USB HDD's. Although, I'm sure there would be better suited components if I get to that point that probably won't cost all that much).
______________________
______________________
______________________
Needless to say, I have at least 1X of everything mentioned above. In most all cases, I have multiples of these items but obviously won't be needing 2X CPU's, Cases, etc...

Naturally, I have GPU's. Specifically;

At least 1X of every. Single. NVIDIA GTX 1070 TI (Yes, I have every variation of the 1070 ti made by MSI, EVGA and Zotac. The only brand I don't have is the Gigabyte line. My partners have terrible experience with those so I didn't even bother. I'm clearly not going to be needing a GPU for this build but again, I'm cool with discussing the idea of a barter if anyone reading this is in the market for one.

I also have some GTX 1080 TI's but those are already spoken for, sorry.

It's my understanding that select CPU's I have on this list are ECC Friendly and AFAIK, only 1 of my MOBO's claims to be ECC Friendly (The ASROCK AB350M PRO4), but for the life of me, I can't find any corresponding forums that confirm this and/or direct me to a listing where I can buy compatible RAM. Just the same, if I go w/ the ASROCK MOBO, that means I'd be using one of the Ryzens. Those are DEF. power hungry little buggers. Not a deal-breaker, just hoping to find something a little more conservative in terms of TDP.


In closing, I don't really need someone to hold my hand with the build part as much as figuring out which motherboard, CPU and RAM to get. Then I'm DEFINITELY going to need some guidance on what OS is best for my desired purpose. If building 2X Rigs makes sense, I'm totally open to that as well...
Rig 1 = EPIC NAS SYSTEM
Rig 2 = EPIC PFSENSE (or the like) DEDICATED FIREWALL

Oh, I almost forgot... The current routers I'm using are...
1X Netgear Nighthawk 6900P (Modem + Router)
1X Netgear Nighthawk X6S (AC 4000 I believe - Router dedicated towards my personal devices - no IoT &/or Guests allowed on this one)
1X TP-Link Archer C5 (Router). Total overkill after implementing the Nighthawks but this old beast somehow has the best range, plus it has 2X USB ports so for now, it's dedicated towards my IoT devices.
---- I also have a few other Wi-Fi routers (Apple Airport Extreme & some inferior Netgear's but I can only allocate so many WiFi Routers to so many WiFi channels w/out pissing off my neighbors) On that note, I have managed to convince my neighbors to let me in their house/WiFi configuration so we all have our hardware locked on specific, non-competing frequencies/channels so everyone's happy. :)


Please spare me the insults as I insulted myself throughout this entire venture. Part of why I did this was because when I was a kid, I used to fantasize about building a 'DREAM PC' but could never afford such. To compensate for this deficiency, I would actually print out the latest and greatest hardware components on a word document, print the lists up & tape to wall (for motivation). I was C++ certified at the age of 14 and built my first PC when I was 7. At the age of 15 I abandoned all hope in the sector and moved on to other aspirations. This entire ordeal was largely based off me finally fulfilling a childhood fantasy. On that note = mission accomplished. Now if I'm actually able to fulfill my desires on this post, I'm definitely going to feel less shitty about blowing so much money on all this stuff over the last couple years.

TIA for assisting in any way possible. Gotta love the internets!


THE END.
:)

EDIT/UPDATE (5 hours after OP) - My inbox is being inundated with various people asking for prices and other reasonable questions about my hardware being up for sale. Not to be redundant but rather to expound on my previous remarks about 'being interested in a bartetrade' with any of you here...

I did say I was going to sell my gear on eBay in the near future, I also said I wanted to trade/barter for anything relative to helping me accomplish my OP's mission(s). I'm not desperate for the $$$ but I'm also not one of those people that likes to rip other people off. That said; I value my time and money invested in this hardware and I'm only willing to unload it all once I've established I have ZERO need for any of it here in my home first. Hence my writing this lengthy thread in an attempt to repurpose at least a grand or two I've already spent.

One of the most commonly asked questions I anticipate receiving from interested bodies is going to be "How hard were you on your hardware?" Contrary to what anyone else would have probably done in my scenario which is say they were light on it whether they were or weren't, I documented my handling of the hardware, and have no problem sharing such documentation with verified, interested buyers (WHEN THE TIME COMES) to offer you guys peace of mind.

I have photo's and video's of the venture from A-Z. I am also obliged to provide (redacted) electricity bill statements where you can correlate my photo's (power draw on each rig), and also accurately deduct the excess power my house consumed with our other household appliances. Even taking into consideration how much (more) I spent in electricity from keeping my house at a constant, cool 70-72F year-round (via my Nest thermostat). Even without the rigs, I keep my AC @ 70 when I'm home and for the last 1.5-2 years, I just so happened to spend 85% of my time here at my house. When I would travel, I'd keep it at 72 for my wife & kids.
Additionally; I had each GPU 'custom' oveunderclocke'd (MSI Afterburner for all GPU's but the EVGA's).*
I doubt everyone reading this is aware so this is for those that don't.... EVGA had the brilliant idea of implementing what they call "ICX technology" in their latest NVIDIA GTX GPU's. The short(est) explanation of this "feature" goes as follows:

EVGA GPU's w/ "ICX 9 & above" have EXTRA HEAT/THERMAL SENSORS. Unlike every other GTX 1070 ti on the market, the one's with this feature actually have each of 2/2 on-board fans connected to individual thermal sensors. Which means - if you were to use the MSI Afterburner program on one of these EVGA's and create a custom fan curve for it, you'd only be able to get 1/2 of the fans to function the way intended. The other fan simply would not engage as the MSI Afterburner software wasn't designed/coded to recognize/ communicate with an added sensor (let alone sensor'S). This, in-turn, would likely result in whoever's using it the unintended way having a GPU defect on them within the first few months I'd imagine... Perhaps if they had the TDP power settings dumbed down as much as I did (60-63%), they might get a year or two out of it since it wouldn't run as near as hot, but I doubt any longer than that since cutting off 50% of the cooling system on one of these can't be ignored too long, surely capacitors would start to blow and who knows what else...
(Warning = RANT) Another interesting side-note about the EVGA's and their "Precision-X" OveUnderclocking software is that it's designed to only recognize 4X GPU's on a single system. For miners, that's just not cool. My favorite builds had 8X and for the motherboards that weren't capable of maintaining stable sessions on 8, I set up with 6X. Only my EVGA Rigs had 3 or 4X GPU's dedicated to a single motherboard. Furthermore, and as stated in an earlier paragraph, (& this is just my opinion) = EVGA SOFTWARE SUCKS! Precision X wasn't friendly with every motherboard/CPU I threw at it and their extension software for the CLC Close-Loop-Cooling/ CPU water-coolers simply didn't work on anything, even integrating into their own Precision-X software. The amount of time it took me to finally find compatible matches with that stuff was beyond maddening. (END RANT).
Which leads me to my other comments on the matter. That's what I had every single 1070 ti set at for TDP = 60-63%. Dropping the power load that much allowed me to bring down (on average) each 1070 ti to a constant 110-115W (mind you, this is only possible w/ "Titanium" rated PSU's, Platinum comes pretty damn close to the Titanium though) while mining Ethereum and was still able to maintain a bottom of 30 MH/s and a ceiling of 32 MH/s. Increasing the TDP to 80, 90, 100% or more only increased my hashrates (yields) negligibly, like 35-36 MH/s TOPS, which also meant each one was not only pulling 160-180W+ (Vs. the aforementioned 115'ish range), it also meant my rigs were creating a significantly greater amount of heat! Fortunately for the GPU's and my own personal habits, I live in South Florida where it's hot as balls typically, last winter was nothing like this one. Increasing my yields by 10-15% didn't justify increasing the heat production in my house by >30%, nor the added electricity costs from subjecting my AC handlers to that much of an extra work-load. For anyone reading this that doesn't know/understand what I'm talking about - after spending no less than 2-3 hours with each. and. every. one. I didn't play with the settings on just one and universally apply the settings to the rest. I found the 'prime' settings and documented them with a label-maker and notepad. Here's the math in a more transparent manner:

*** I NEVER LET MY GPU's BREACH 61C, EVER. Only my 8X GPU rigs saw 60-61 & it was the ones I had in the center of the build (naturally). I have REALLY high power fans (used on BTC ASIC MINERS) that were sucking air from those GPU's which was the only way I was able to obtain such stellar results while mining with them. **\*
Mining at "acceptable" heat temps (not acceptable to me, but most of the internet would disagree = 70C) and overclocking accordingly brings in X amount of yields per unit. =
'Tweaking' (underclocking) the GPU's to my parameters reduced my yield per unit from -10-15%, but it SAVED me well over 30-35% in direct electricity consumption, and an unknown amount of passive electricity consumption via creating approximately 20%+ less heat for my AC handler to combat.

I say all this extra stuff not just for anyone interested in mining with their GPU's, but really to answer (in-depth) the apparent questions you people are asking me in PM's. Something else that should help justify my claims of being so conservative should be the fact I only have/used "Platinum and Titanium" rated PSU's. Heat production, power efficiency and longevity of the hardware were ALWAYS my top priority.* . I truly thought Crypto would continue to gain and/or recover and bounce back faster than it did. If this project had maintained positive income for 12 months+, I'd have expanded one of our sites to also cater to GPU mining on a gnarly scale.

Once I have my NAS (& possibly 2nd rig for the firewall) successfully built, I'll be willing/able to entertain selling you guys some/all of the remaining hardware prior to launching on eBay. If there's something you're specifically looking for that I listed having, feel free to PM me with that/those specific item(s). Don't count on an immediate response but what you can count on is me honoring my word in offering whoever asks first right of refusal when the time comes for me to sell this stuff. Fortunately for me, PM's are time-stamped so that's how I'll gauge everyone's place in line. I hope this extra edit answers most of the questions you guys wanted to have answered and if not, sorry I guess. I'll do my best to bring light to anything I've missed out on after I realize whatever that error was/is. The only way anyone is getting first dibs on my hardware otherwise is if they either offer compelling insight into my original questions, or have something I need to trade w/.

THE END (Round#2)


submitted by Im-Ne-wHere to buildapcforme [link] [comments]

Why I have decided to invest in OmiseGo (OMG) now.

I found out about this project last week, though recall seeing their name pop up earlier in the month because of their crowdsale. Since then, I have sold 50% of my shares in other projects, and plan to increase my position greatly next month once I gain more fiat funds. I believe as an investor, OmiseGo (OMG) shows incredible potential, with now being perfect time to invest. I say invest and not trade, as this one is for the medium to long term, and not short.
  1. Omise has been around since 2013. This is not a new company, but rather one with history, core investors (20 million in series A and B prior to their latest crowdsale) and a completely serious established operation and team (70+!). They have offices in Thailand, Japan, Indonesia and Singapore. The company provides a payment management system for businesses to accept payments through their mobile application or online store. They work with AliPay as well for example. They have the PCI DSS 3.2 (Payment Card Industry Data Security Standard) already in place since November last year.
  2. Omise has just recently acquired one of the three largest payment service providers in Thailand, Paysbuy , a licensed by the Bank of Thailand operator of e-money business, and accredited with Trustmark (DBD Verified) by the Ministry of Commerce. This provides a very well established source of active users.
  3. OmiseGO is their blockchain project : "a public Ethereum-based financial technology for use in mainstream digital wallets, that enables real-time, peer-to-peer value exchange and payment services agnostically across jurisdictions and organizational silos, and across both fiat money and decentralized currencies.” . Which to me means that they are taking all that is great in the blockchain technology, and integrating it with their offering, creating a new advanced Omise service.
  4. Other than the lead team working on OmiseGo, the following are all officially advising the project: Vitalik Buterin (ETH lead ) , Dr. Gavin Wood (ETH and Parity lead) , Vlad Zamfir (CaspeETH lead), Joseph Poon (Lightning Net lead) and Roger Ver of bitcoin.com as well as many others, including a professor of Quantitative Finance. Not aware of any other BC project that has such a list of advisors of this caliber.
  5. Jun Hasegawa, Omise’s CEO, revealed just recently that McDonald’s Thailand (over 240 locations), will be using OmiseGo’s payment channel. A big Press release regarding this news has not been released, and is expected super soon! Also quoting Jun “we're launching OmiseGO to support Omise Payments and all existing stakeholders, including our existing and future merchants, such as McDonald's in other countries in Asia - McDonald's Thailand is just the start. Through OmiseGO, all Omise merchants will be able to seamlessly accept payments in multiple currencies, including ETH or BTC or other cryptos, without needing to know what their client is paying in. And any other payment gateways, including Omise's biggest competitors, as well as global giants like Stripe or Cybersource, will benefit from using OmiseGO/OMG, and are welcome, no partnership or permission needed. The OMG chain will be an entirely public and permissionless network, connected to Ethereum.”
  6. Other than investing in OmiseGo business through their OMG token for all the reasons I detailed here, holders of OMG will also generate an extra income, and quoting Jun : “OMG is a token that secures a public permissionless POS network, whose primary use case is to host a decentralised exchange for digital fiat and crypto alike. It is backed by significant mainstream financial firms in Asia who will use it as the backend for existing digital wallets - think Venmo, Google Wallet, WeChat Pay (examples of digital wallets only) - and for hosting digital fiat tokens for their existing merchant payment network. OMG holders can use OMG to validate the network. If they validate a block correctly, they get paid the tx fees from that block (but if they validate incorrectly, they get punished). Like mining but without the need for hardware.
//
These are the main reasons why I have invested in Omise and why I feel it is a great opportunity right now with super great timing. OMG only launched last week on the exchanges, and is already available on Bitfinex, (stating that “OmiseGO is an impressive and professional project, which aims to deliver on the initial promises of blockchain technology: to revolutionize the traditional financial world. OmiseGO provides a wallet and payment network for both fiat and crypto currencies.”) as well as on Liqui and EtherDelta, though personally I would stick to the well-established Bitfinex (as I did). You can dive in with BTC, ETH and even USD. Price is really nice and low, and at a perfect entry point.
EDIT: its now also live on Bttrex!
Omise main: https://www.omise.co/ OmiseGo main: https://omg.omise.co Subreddit: https://www.reddit.com/omise_go/ Slack: http://omgslack.omise.co/
Good luck to us all.
EDIT - 30 AUGUST 2017 : More new points on why OMG is a great investment can be found here : https://www.reddit.com/omise_go/comments/6tvmo4/ten_things_you_may_not_know_about_omisego/
submitted by martingore2017 to ethtrader [link] [comments]

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